How to Install An Asphalt Shingle Roof

Roof Installation Guide for the DIY Homeowner

The first thing to do before embarking on roofing your own house is to ask someone who has done it before. This person is the absolute best resource for learning every pitfall and hidden expense that you will encounter. If they are a good friend they will share with you the permanent scars they acquired (both emotional and physical) from the endeavor.

Installing an asphalt shingle roof on a residential dwelling is a significant undertaking that requires meticulous planning, the right tools, and a basic understanding of roofing techniques. This article aims to equip homeowners in the Tampa Bay area – particularly those with no prior experience – with enough knowledge and confidence to say, “Who in their right mind thinks this is a good idea?”

Essential Tools and Equipment

Before diving into the project, assembling the right set of tools is crucial. Here’s a basic list for a DIY roofer:

• Safety Gear: Safety harnesses, gloves, safety goggles, and anti-slip footwear are non-negotiable to ensure your well-being throughout the project.
  • Safety harness: $100 – $200
  • Gloves: $10 – $30
  • Safety goggles: $10 – $20
  • Anti-slip footwear: $50 – $150
• Ladders: A sturdy, extendable ladder to safely reach the height of your roof.
  • Costs can range from $100 to $300, depending on height and quality.
• Wheelbarrow or Dump Trailer: For transporting removed shingles and debris from the work area to a disposal site.
  • Wheelbarrow: Prices can range from $30 to $200. A heavy-duty wheelbarrow suitable for roofing debris will be on the higher end of this range.
  • Dump Trailer: Renting a dump trailer can cost between $70 to $150 per day, depending on the size and your location. Buying one is a significant investment, often exceeding $1,000 for a basic model.
• Tarps: To protect landscaping and collect debris, making cleanup easier.
  • Heavy-duty tarps suitable for protecting landscaping and collecting debris can cost between $10 and $100. The price varies based on size and material quality, with larger and more durable tarps costing more.
• Magnetic Sweeper: Useful for picking up nails and metal objects from the ground around the work area to prevent injuries and tire damage.
  • A basic handheld magnetic sweeper can start around $30, while larger models designed to be pushed like a lawnmower or attached to a vehicle can range from $100 to $300 or more.
• Ladder: A sturdy ladder is necessary for safe access to the roof.
  • A sturdy, extendable ladder suitable for residential roofing projects can cost between $100 and $300, depending on its maximum height and features like fiberglass construction for durability and safety.
• Dumpster: While not a tool, having a dumpster on-site is essential for disposing of the old roofing materials efficiently.
  • The cost of renting a dumpster for roofing debris disposal varies by location, size of the dumpster, and length of rental. For a typical residential roofing project, prices might range from $200 to $400 for a week’s rental of a 10 to 20-yard dumpster, which is generally sufficient for a project of this scope.
• Roofing Nailer: While a hammer can be used for nailing shingles, a roofing nailer significantly speeds up the process.
  • A good quality roofing nailer can cost between $200 and $400. Pneumatic models tend to be in this range, while battery-operated models might be slightly higher.
• Utility Knife: For trimming shingles to size.
  • A reliable utility knife can be found for around $5 to $25, depending on the brand and features.
• Roofing Shovel: Crucial for prying up old shingles and removing nails
  • Expect to pay anywhere from $25 to $60 for a good-quality roofing shovel. Buy 2 or 3 of the best you can find. Professional-grade tools or those with additional features, such as ergonomic handles or adjustable angles will help your back and are less likely to break.
• Pry Bar: Essential for removing old shingles and nails.
  • Specialized pry bars, such as those designed specifically for roofing or heavy-duty demolition work, prices can range from $20 to $50 or more.
• Chalk Line: To ensure straight, aligned rows of shingles.
  • A basic chalk line tool is relatively inexpensive, around $5 to $15.
• Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
  • A quality measuring tape can cost between $5 and $25, depending on length and brand. Get 2.
• Caulking Gun: For applying sealant around flashing and vents.
  • A standard caulking gun can range from $5 to $50, with higher-end models offering better durability and ease of use.

To say that this is a significant investment is an understatement. On top of that, unless you intend to start your own roofing company, what are you going to do with all of this stuff when you’re done?

Project Timeline

The time it takes to complete a roofing project can vary based on several factors, including the complexity of the roof, weather conditions, and the skill level of the DIYer. While professionals can do it in a couple of days, it will probably take you a minimum of 2 weeks, because, after the first day of removing the old tiles, you’ll need a full week to recover.

For a 1500 sq ft house, a well-organized DIYer with some basic construction experience and a few helping hands can expect the project to take anywhere from 2 to 4 days. This timeline assumes optimal weather conditions and that the preparatory work (e.g., obtaining permits, and removing the old roof) has been completed beforehand.

Required Materials

If you’ve made it this far, congratulations, you might be crazy.

Choosing the appropriate materials is pivotal, especially in a region like Tampa Bay, known for its hot, humid climate and susceptibility to heavy rains and hurricanes. Material costs for installing a new roof on a 1500 sq ft house involve considering various factors, including the quality of materials, local price variations, and specific product brands. Here’s a rough breakdown of the costs you might expect for each component, keeping in mind that prices can vary significantly based on location, supplier, and the specific products chosen. Prices for materials fluctuate with market demand and will be more expensive for individuals who don’t buy enough regularly to get bulk discounts. Therefore, these estimates are broad. Always check with local suppliers or contractors for current pricing.

Here’s a rundown of most of the materials you’ll need:

1. Asphalt Shingles

• Cost: High-quality, weather-resistant shingles suitable for the Tampa Bay climate, especially reflective or energy-efficient options, can range from $1100 to $170 per square (100 sq ft). For 1500 sq ft, you would need 15 squares.
• Total Cost: $1,350 to $2,250

2. Underlayment

• Cost: Prices can vary widely based on the type (felt vs. synthetic). For a quality synthetic underlayment, expect to pay between $0.20 to $0.50 per sq ft.
• Total Cost: $300 to $750

3. Flashing

• Cost: The cost of flashing can vary based on the material (aluminum, copper, steel) and the specific areas needing coverage. A ballpark figure for a standard roof might be $200 to $500 for all necessary flashing.

4. Drip Edge

• Cost: Drip edge pricing can be around $1 to $2 per linear foot. Assuming an average home might need around 200 linear feet, the total cost could be $200 to $400.

5. Roofing Nails

• Cost: The price for roofing nails is relatively minor compared to other materials. A large box can cost around $25 to $50, sufficient for a job of this size.

6. Roof Ventilation

• Cost: The price for roof vents can vary widely depending on the type and quantity. A basic vent can cost $10 to $20 each, but more efficient systems or ridge vents could be significantly more. For basic setups, budget around $150 to $300.

7. Sealant

• Cost: High-quality roof sealant can cost around $5 to $10 per tube. Depending on the size of the roof and the amount of sealing required, you might need 10 to 20 tubes.
• Total Cost: $50 to $200

Overall Material Cost Estimate

Adding up these components, the rough material cost for a 1500 sq ft roof could range from $3,000 to $5,500. This estimate is just for materials for you to DIY. These estimates do not include bribing your adult children to help you, costs for ER visits, gas/time for trips back and forth to Lowe’s or Home Depot, or labor costs for actual professionals to help you when you come back to reality. Labor costs can vary widely because it’s expensive to find people willing to do this day-after-day, and commit themselves to becoming experts in the field of roofing.

Get Help (Physical. Not mental… wait… maybe mental, too.)

Roofing your own house is going to be hard, so you’re going to need help. The best strategy is to get a different person to commit to helping you every single day, for 2 weeks. This means that you need a list of about 15 to 20 people. Now, you may be thinking “20 people?! Are you crazy?”

To the uninformed, this may sound like overkill, but trust us, IT’S NOT, because after one day of helping you either remove the old asphalt roofing tiles or install the new asphalt roofing tiles, anyone who helps you is NOT coming back for a second day.

In fact, there is a very good chance that you will permanently lose some good friends over this project. Be prepared for that.

Still here?! Then let’s get to work.

When preparing to install a new roof, it’s essential to follow a structured approach to ensure the longevity and safety of your roofing project. Here’s an expanded guide on new roof preparation:

Step 1: Preparation of New Roof Installation

1. Check Local Building Codes

• Understand Requirements: Local building codes vary by location and are designed to ensure that construction projects meet safety and quality standards. These codes may dictate the types of materials you can use, how much weight your roof structure can support, and other critical factors.
• Permit Application: In many areas, you’ll need to apply for a permit before beginning any roofing work. This often involves submitting your roofing plan for approval and possibly paying a fee.

2. Obtain Necessary Permits

• Documentation: Gather all required documentation, which may include detailed project plans, materials lists, and contractor information, if you’re not doing the work yourself.
• Inspections: Be prepared for inspections. Most localities require one or more inspections during and after the roofing project to ensure compliance with building codes.

3. Remove Old Roofing Material

• Safety First: Roof removal can be hazardous. Wear protective gear, including gloves, eye protection, and sturdy boots.
• Proper Disposal: Rent a dumpster or arrange for disposal of the old roofing material. Many areas have specific regulations for the disposal of construction waste.
• Efficiency: Use roofing shovels or forks to strip old shingles, starting from the peak and working your way down to the eaves.

4. Inspect the Roof Deck

• Identify Damage: Look for signs of rot, water damage, or structural weakness. Pay special attention to areas around roof penetrations like chimneys, vents, and skylights.
• Repair or Replace: Any damaged sections of the roof deck should be repaired or replaced before proceeding. This may involve cutting out damaged sections and patching them with new material or reinforcing areas that show signs of weakness.

5. Prepare Roof Deck

• Cleaning: Sweep the roof deck thoroughly to remove nails, debris, and dirt that could interfere with the installation of new roofing material.
• Underlayment: Install a waterproof or water-resistant underlayment as a secondary barrier against water intrusion. The choice between synthetic and felt underlayment depends on your budget, the type of roofing material, and local building codes.

6. Additional Considerations

• Ventilation: Ensure proper attic ventilation. Poor ventilation can lead to heat and moisture buildup, reducing the lifespan of your roof.
• Flashing: Check and replace flashing around chimneys, vents, and other roof penetrations. Flashing is critical for preventing water from seeping into the roof structure.
• Gutters: Consider updating or repairing your gutter system as part of your roofing project. Properly functioning gutters are essential for directing water away from your roof and foundation.

By following the steps listed above and adhering to local building codes and regulations, you should avoid fines while installing your roof correctly.

If this is starting to sound like too much work, consider hiring a professional roofing contractor.

Step 2: Underlayment Installation

The installation of underlayment is another critical step in roofing that provides a secondary layer of protection against water intrusion, beneath the primary roofing material. Proper installation is important to the longevity and effectiveness of your roofing system, especially in areas prone to severe weather, like Florida.

Here’s what you need to know to install underlayment on a residential roof:

1. Choose the Right Underlayment

• Types: Underlayment comes in various materials, including felt (often referred to as tar paper) and synthetic products. Felt underlayment is traditional and cost-effective, while synthetic underlayment offers superior durability, moisture resistance, and longevity.
• Weight and Quality: If you’re doing it yourself, use the money you saved on labor to purchase the best underlayment. Underlayment is also classified by weight (e.g., 15 lb or 30 lb for felt) and quality. Heavier weights and higher-quality materials offer better protection.

2. Prepare the Roof Deck

• Inspection and Repairs: Before installing the underlayment, ensure the roof deck is in good condition. Replace any damaged or rotten wood and remove old nails or debris that could puncture the underlayment.
• Clean Surface: Sweep the roof deck to remove dust and debris for a clean surface.

3. Start at the Bottom Edge

• Alignment: Begin at the lowest edge of the roof. Roll out the first strip of underlayment parallel to the eave, ensuring it’s straight. Some types of underlayment have lines or markings to help with alignment.
• Overlap: The underlayment should slightly overhang the eave edge by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. This helps direct water into the gutters.

4. Secure the Underlayment

• Nailing Pattern: Secure the underlayment with roofing nails or staples. Start at one corner and work your way across, placing fasteners every 6 to 8 inches along the edge and in the middle of the strip.
• Overlap Strips: Each subsequent strip of underlayment should overlap the previous one by at least 2 inches (for synthetic) to 4 inches (for felt) to ensure proper water shedding. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for overlap distance.

5. Work Your Way Up

• Sequential Installation: Continue rolling out, aligning, and securing strips of underlayment, moving up the roof. Ensure each new strip overlaps the one below it to create a water-tight barrier.
• Around Protrusions: Cut the underlayment to fit around vents, chimneys, and other roof protrusions. Seal around these areas with flashing or additional sealant as needed.

6. Secure the Edges

• Perimeter Fastening: Pay special attention to the edges and perimeter of the roof. Additional fastening may be required in these areas to prevent wind uplift and water intrusion.

7. Inspect the Installation

• Check for Gaps: After installation, inspect the underlayment for any gaps, poorly secured areas, or potential points of water entry. Address any issues before proceeding with the installation of the primary roofing material.

8. Consider Weather Conditions

• Dry Conditions: Install underlayment in dry conditions to avoid trapping moisture between the roof deck and the underlayment, which can lead to mold growth and wood rot.
• Wind: Avoid installing underlayment on windy days to prevent it from tearing or being blown away before it’s securely fastened.

Following these detailed steps can significantly contribute to the overall performance and durability of your roofing system, providing an essential layer of protection against the elements.

Step 3: Flashing & Drip Edge Installation

Flashing is a critical component often screwed up by DIYers. It’s designed to prevent water from penetrating the roof at joints, valleys, and around roof penetrations like chimneys, vents, and skylights. If you’ve ever seen the edge of a roof rotting away, it’s because someone screwed up the drip edge. Proper installation of flashing is crucial to the integrity of the roofing system, as these areas are highly susceptible to leaks.

Most often, DIYers don’t realize they’ve messed up the flashing until the first major storm after their roof is installed. Here’s an expanded guide on how to install flashing:

1. Types of Flashing

• Material: Flashing materials include aluminum, copper, galvanized steel, and lead. The choice of material often depends on the roofing material, aesthetic considerations, and budget.
• Forms: There are several forms of flashing, including step flashing, valley flashing, drip edges, and flashing around penetrations (chimney, vents).

2. Chimney Flashing

• Step Flashing: Install step flashing where the chimney meets the roof. Each piece of step flashing should overlap the piece below it by at least 2 inches and should be integrated with each course of shingles.
• Counter Flashing: Cut into the chimney mortar joint and install counter flashing that overlaps the step flashing. This directs water away from the chimney and onto the roof surface.

3. Vent Flashing

• Pipe Boots or Vent Flashing: For roof vents and plumbing vents, use prefabricated flashing boots that fit over the pipe. The base of the flashing should be secured to the roof, and the top should fit snugly around the pipe.
• Sealing: Apply a high-quality sealant around the base of the vent flashing to ensure a watertight seal.

4. Valley Flashing

• Open vs. Closed Valleys: Open valleys have metal flashing exposed, while closed valleys are covered with shingles. The choice between them often depends on the roof design and aesthetic preference.
• Installation: For open valleys, lay a strip of metal flashing down the valley. The flashing should be wide enough to handle water flow and extend under the shingles on both sides of the valley.

5. Drip Edge Flashing

• Eaves and Rakes: Install drip edge flashing along the eaves before laying the underlayment, and along the rakes (sides of the roof) after the underlayment. This helps direct water away from the fascia and into the gutters.

6. Securing Flashing

• Fastening: Use roofing nails or screws to secure flashing pieces to the roof, ensuring not to penetrate the flashing in a way that would allow water to seep through.
• Sealant: Apply sealant or roofing cement at joints and edges where different flashing pieces meet or where flashing meets roofing materials to ensure a watertight seal.

7. Inspection and Maintenance

• Regular Checks: Inspect flashing regularly for signs of wear, corrosion, or separation from the roof surface. Promptly repair or replace damaged flashing to prevent leaks.
• Compatibility: Ensure the flashing material is compatible with the roofing material to prevent galvanic corrosion. For example, copper flashing should not be used with aluminum roofing.

8. Integration with Roofing Materials

• Overlap: Make sure that flashing integrates well with the roofing material. Shingles, tiles, or other roofing materials should overlap flashing in a manner that promotes water runoff without allowing water to seep underneath.

Properly installing and maintaining flashing is essential to protecting your home from water damage. When in doubt, consult with a professional roofing contractor to ensure that flashing is correctly installed, especially around complex roof features.

Step 4: Shingle Installation (Finally!)

Shingle installation is THEE reason for this party and literally what you imagined you’d be doing when you mentally said “yes” to this. It’s also the most important phase (after all the other most important phases) because it requires precision and attention to detail to ensure a watertight and aesthetically pleasing finish.

Here’s an expanded guide on how to install asphalt roof shingles (Don’t screw this up.):

1. Starting Strip

• Preparation: Before laying the first row of shingles, install a starting strip at the bottom edge of the roof. The starting strip can be a specialized product or cut from regular shingles. It should overhang the drip edge by about 1/4 to 3/4 inches.
• Purpose: The starting strip ensures the first row of shingles has a flat surface to adhere to and helps prevent wind uplift.

2. First Row of Shingles

• Alignment: Lay the first row of shingles on top of the starting strip, ensuring the tabs face downwards towards the eaves. Align the edge of the shingle with the edge of the roof, maintaining the recommended overhang.
• Nailing: Secure each shingle with roofing nails placed at the manufacturer’s specified locations, usually above the cutouts and below the adhesive strip. The typical rule is to use four nails per shingle, increasing to six in high-wind areas.

3. Subsequent Rows

• Offset Pattern: To prevent water infiltration, each row of shingles should be offset from the one below it. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for the offset pattern, which often involves starting the second row with a half shingle.
• Overlapping: Ensure each row overlaps the one below it by the amount specified by the shingle manufacturer, typically about 5 inches. This overlap is crucial for shedding water effectively.

4. Working Up the Roof

• Row by Row: Continue laying shingles row by row, working from the bottom of the roof up. Use chalk lines to keep rows straight and consistent across the roof.
• Valleys and Hips: In areas where two roof planes meet, such as valleys and hips, special techniques are required to ensure water tightness. Closed valleys are covered with shingles, while open valleys may have metal flashing exposed.

5. Around Protrusions

• Flashing Integration: When you reach a vent, chimney, or other roof penetration, integrate step flashing or appropriate flashing products to ensure water is directed away from these vulnerable areas.
• Sealing: Apply roofing sealant around the edges of flashing and shingles near protrusions to enhance water resistance.

6. Ridge Caps

• Installation: Once all the shingles are installed up to the ridge, cap the ridge with specialized ridge cap shingles. These are typically thicker and pre-bent to fit over the ridge.
• Securing: Nail each ridge cap shingle into place, overlapping each piece with the previous one to ensure a watertight seal at the roof’s highest point.

7. Final Inspection

• Quality Check: After installation, inspect the entire roof to ensure all shingles are securely fastened, all flashing is properly integrated, and there are no gaps or misaligned shingles.
• Clean Up: Remove any leftover materials, nails, or debris from the roof and gutters.

Key Considerations

• Weather Conditions: Avoid installing shingles in extreme cold or hot weather, as shingles can become brittle in cold temperatures and overly pliable in hot temperatures, affecting installation quality.
• Manufacturer’s Instructions: Always follow the shingle manufacturer’s installation instructions and recommendations for the best results and to maintain the warranty.

This is literally why we’re here, so, yeah… this is important. Proper installation of the shingles is paramount for the roof’s longevity, functionality, and appearance. It’s advisable for those inexperienced in roofing to consult with or hire professional roofing contractors to ensure the job is done correctly and safely.

Step… 5? 6?: Attic Ventilation

Attic ventilation is super important for temperature and moisture control in the attic space. Messing this up can result in mold issues, leaks and unnecessarily high cooling bills. Here’s an expanded guide on how to install ridge vents and other ventilation systems:

1. Understanding Attic Ventilation

• Purpose: Effective ventilation keeps the attic cool in summer and dry in winter, preventing issues like ice dams, roof rot, and mold growth.
• Balance: Ensure a balance between intake vents (usually at the soffits/eaves) and exhaust vents (at or near the ridge) for optimal airflow.

2. Ridge Vents

• Installation Site: Ridge vents are installed along the peak of the roof, where hot air naturally rises and exits the attic.
• Cutting the Opening: Carefully cut a slot along the ridge of the roof, following the manufacturer’s specifications for width. This slot allows air to escape from the attic.
• Applying the Vent: Place the ridge vent over the slot. Ridge vents come in various materials and designs, including shingle-over vents that blend seamlessly with the roof.
• Sealing and Fastening: Secure the ridge vent to the roof with nails or screws as specified by the manufacturer. Seal any gaps at the ends of the vent to prevent water and pest intrusion.

3. Soffit Vents

• Complementary Ventilation: Soffit vents act as intake vents, drawing cool, fresh air into the attic as hot air exits through the ridge vent.
• Installation: Install soffit vents in the eaves, ensuring they are evenly spaced and unobstructed by insulation or other materials.

4. Gable Vents

• Alternative or Supplement: In some roof designs, gable vents, placed at the end walls of the attic, can serve as additional exhaust or intake vents, depending on wind direction.
• Installation: Ensure that gable vents are large enough to support adequate airflow and are properly screened to keep out pests.

5. Turbine Vents

• Wind-Driven Ventilation: Turbine vents rotate with the wind, actively pulling air out of the attic. They are installed on the roof surface.
• Considerations: These vents are most effective in areas with consistent wind but may require more maintenance due to moving parts.

6. Box Vents

• Passive Ventilation: Also known as static vents, box vents rely on natural convection to move air. They are installed near the ridge but cover a smaller area than ridge vents.
• Multiple Vents: You may need several box vents spaced evenly along the ridge to achieve adequate ventilation.

7. Calculating Ventilation Needs

• Ventilation Ratio: A common rule is 1 square foot of ventilation for every 150 square feet of attic floor space, divided equally between intake and exhaust vents. Adjustments may be needed based on local building codes and climate conditions.

8. Professional Assessment

• Inspection: Consider a professional assessment of your attic’s ventilation needs. Proper calculation and placement of vents are crucial for effectiveness and compliance with local codes.

Key Installation Tips

• Weather Considerations: Install ventilation systems during dry, mild weather conditions to avoid complications.
• Tools and Safety: Use appropriate tools and follow safety protocols when working on the roof. Protective gear, ladders, and possibly scaffolding are necessary for safe installation.

You can probably guess that this is ALSO crucial for the health of your roof and attic, affecting energy efficiency, roof longevity, and the comfort of your home. Whether upgrading an existing system or installing a new one, careful planning, and adherence to best practices ensure optimal performance and durability.

Roofing Final Inspection

Nobody likes a mess. Conducting a thorough final inspection ensures that everything is dotted and crossed and that you don’t end up with an old roofing nail impaled through the bottom of your foot.

Cleanup after a roofing project is very important for ensuring the safety and aesthetics of the work site.

Here’s an expanded guide on how to effectively complete these final stages of a roofing project:

1. Shingle Alignment and Attachment

• Alignment: Check that all shingles are properly aligned according to the manufacturer’s specifications, with straight lines and consistent patterning across the roof.
• Secure Attachment: Ensure every shingle is securely nailed down, with nails placed in the correct location and depth as per the installation guidelines. There should be no exposed nails heads; they should be flush with the surface of the shingle but not cutting into it.

2. Flashing and Sealant

• Flashing Integrity: Inspect all flashing around chimneys, vents, and valleys to ensure it’s correctly installed, with no gaps or improper overlaps that could lead to leaks.
• Sealant Application: Check the application of sealant around flashing, vents, and at shingle edges. The sealant should be evenly applied, ensuring a watertight seal without any gaps or bubbles.

3. Ventilation

• Proper Vent Installation: Verify that all vents are properly installed and unobstructed, ensuring effective attic ventilation. This includes ridge vents, soffit vents, and any other ventilation products used.
• Balance: Ensure there’s a balance between intake and exhaust ventilation systems to facilitate proper airflow through the attic.

4. Debris in Gutters

• Gutter Clearance: Check gutters and downspouts for any debris from the roofing project that could obstruct water flow. Remove any materials, such as shingle granules, nails, or pieces of underlayment.

5. Overall Roof Condition

• Uniform Appearance: The roof should have a uniform appearance with no irregularities in color, texture, or material layout.
• Damage Check: Ensure there’s no accidental damage caused to the roof or the shingles during installation.

Cleanup

1. Site Cleanup

• Debris Removal: Collect and remove all debris, including old shingles, underlayment, nails, and packaging materials from the work site. Use a magnetic sweeper to collect metal objects like nails from the ground to prevent injury or tire damage.
• Material Disposal: Dispose of all waste materials in accordance with local regulations and recycling options.

2. Tool and Equipment Organization

• Inventory: Make sure all tools and equipment are accounted for, cleaned, and properly stored. This helps in maintaining the tools’ condition and ensures they are ready for the next job.

3. Final Walkthrough with the Client

• Review the Work: Conduct a final walkthrough with the client to review the work completed. Explain the details of the installation, including the ventilation system, flashing details, and any specific instructions for maintenance.
• Address Concerns: Answer any questions and address concerns the client may have to ensure their satisfaction with the project.

4. Documentation

• Warranty and Paperwork: Provide the client with all necessary documentation, including warranties for materials and labor, invoices, and any maintenance guidelines.

The final inspection and cleanup are as important as the installation itself, ensuring the roof’s integrity and the homeowner’s satisfaction. It also sets a professional standard for the work performed, reflecting on the quality and reliability of the roofing contractor or the DIY homeowner’s attention to detail.

Avoid a DIY Nightmare

If you can get through it, installing a new asphalt shingle roof is a rewarding, albeit challenging DIY project. With the right preparation, tools, and materials, DIY homeowners in Tampa Bay can enhance their home while protecting it against the elements, and increasing its value.

However, given the project’s complexity and the risks involved, those unsure of their abilities should consider consulting with or hiring professional roofers. Safety should always be the top priority.